Darwin and the Top End

We’re still here!

It's been a while so let us bring you up to speed……

In the past three months, work has been occupying most of our time.  The night before we left for Tasmania, Becky accepted a job offer.  In her search for employment, she discovered one thing quickly: be it a sandwich artist, a retail associate, or even a chicken de-boner, all jobs in Australia require a moderate level of experience.   For that reason alone, she’s working in a dental office.  This time though, not as a hygienist, but as a receptionist.  It turns out that hygienists are not common in our area.  What a relief since she chose not to spend the time and money to license in Oz.  Meanwhile, Jason was plugging away, too.  He just wrapped up his F-18 Hornet training.  Luckily, the last few weeks of the course took place in Darwin, the capital of the Northern Territory.   It couldn’t have been better because it gave Becky the opportunity to join him for some travel.   

We rented another campervan for this trip.  It’s safe to say the sheen wore off after a week in this one.  The “living space” (in the back) was a tad too small.  We could access our bags best if they were on the bench.  In order to sit on the bench we had to throw the bags on the floor.  In order to sit on the bench and not step on our bags we had to turn them upright and stack them on top of each other.  In order to turn the bench into our bed, we had to clear the floor by tossing the bags up front.  -Draining!  Every move we made was like a game of Tetris.  Nevertheless, it was successful in that it got us from point A to point B.  The other main difference was that it was a 4 wheel drive.   This allowed us to navigate over and through rough terrain to access sites that we would otherwise miss.   To keep it simple, this area of Australia basically has two seasons.  A 6 month long wet season. A 6 month long dry season.  The rainy season ended in April with nearly two times as much water as normal.  For us, this meant heaps of crocodiles, raging waterfalls, and some closed 4x4 tracks that Jason was desperately hoping to travel.

Jason cooking up one of his mean breakfasts

We kicked off this trip by visiting the slightly cheesy Crocodylus Park.  Jason (along with the rest of the KIDS in the park) fed a 10 foot “salty.”  From an educational perspective, it was a good starting point.   We learned the difference between the freshwater and saltwater crocs. The freshwater are smaller and more afraid of us then we are of them.  The Saltys are the ones to avoid.  They’re aggressive and inquisitive creatures.  To satisfy their curiosity they take a big bite…if it’s edible they’ll carry on.  If not, they’ll stop.  Measuring in at 2000-4000 psi, we’d hate to be on the receiving end of a chomp.  

Baby freshy

Buddies

Darwin is known for its beautiful sunsets.  We took in the view at the popular Darwin Sailing Club.  The nibbles of fresh oysters were just as gorgeous. 

Leaving the city for the Outback, we drove to the Adelaide River for a jumping croc cruise.  We stepped onto the 30 foot pontoon boat for an interesting morning.  We both agreed that it’s one thing to observe a motionless crocodile, but another to be up close and personal while it’s in a fit of fury.  Hearing, for the first time, the incredible bite force of the croc was both shocking and haunting.  It’s one of those sounds that make your heart race and your toes curl.  Our fearless guide was great.  He did all the feedings by baiting a hunk of mystery meat on a wire that was connected to a pvc pole.  Early on in the tour he ensured us that safety was his main priority.   He even went on to say that he never lost a passenger.  Mind you, all of this was being said with him standing in the middle of the boat…away from the steering wheel…while we headed straight for a tree lined river bank.  We remained seated and exchanged some questioning looks.  Thankfully, an uninhibited passenger jumped out his seat and grabbed the wheel to avoid the looming disaster.  As laid back as one could be, our tour guide turns to the paying customer now driving the boat and says, “Thanks mate.”  Classic.  Then, as we deboarded our guide shook our hand good-bye.  Having spent the previous 2 hours watching his bare hands hold, cut and juggle bloody meat, it was touch for Becky to extend. 

The partially edentulous crocodile at our boat

It's amazing how something this big can blend so well into his surroundings

Love the hands!

Thanks to one of the world’s greatest concentrations of Aboriginal rock art, Kakadu National Park is on the United Nations list of World Heritage properties.  The paintings are estimated to range in age from 20,000 years to the recent present.  The rock art in Kakadu was painted for a number of reasons:

• hunting
  Animals were often painted to increase their abundance and to ensure a successful hunt by placing people in touch with the spirit of the animal
• religious significance
  At some sites paintings depict aspects of particular ceremonies
• stories and learning
  Stories associated with the Creation Ancestors, who gave shape to the world were painted
• sorcery and magic
  Paintings could be used to manipulate events and influence people's lives; fun-for play and practice

The above info is straight from this website: http://www.environment.gov.au/parks/kakadu/culture-history/art/index.html

Fish (hard to see)

Hunter

Aboriginal Dance Party

Sunset at Ubirr where a large collection of rock is found

Another highlight in Kakadu was a sunrise cruise on the Yellow River.  Words can’t even express how majestic it was; truly a sight to see.  As always, our photos fail to capture the beauty seen with the eye. 

Two of our favorite waterfalls in Kakadu were Jim Jim and Gunlom.  We got lucky with Jim Jim.  The 4x4 track leading to the falls opened days before we arrived, but the pools remained closed due an unwelcome “freshy”.  Fear not, the croc was removed within hours of us hiking back and Jason jumping in for a swim. 

We hiked to the top of Gunlom falls for an amazing view.  We can only describe it as the window to the world.  Our timing was perfect as we had the place to ourselves.  

  

Heading to Katherine, we stopped in the western side of Nitmiluk National Park for some bushwalking at Edith Falls.  The trails led us to multiple tranquil swimming holes.  

The major attraction of the Nitmiluk National Park is the stunning Katherine Gorge.  Jason really wanted us to canoe the gorge but that was a no go.  The croc risk was too high.  Instead, we opted for an effortless river cruise.  At the end of the third gorge, we hiked in to Lily Pond for a swim and (you won’t believe this) another waterfall.

Lily Pond

Croc trap found in the gorge

Litchfield National Park was our last big stop...or so we thought (more on that in a second).  Litchfield is smaller than Kakadu.  We only spent one night here as there wasn't much to see.  This is where a major 4x4 track was closed.  Jason was really disappointed.  Up to this point, we did use the 4 wheel drive everyday and drove through water, but it wasn't an impressive creek crossing.  Leave to Jason;  he'll find what's he's looking for...

 

Beaming

Another highlight in Litchfield include the magnetic termite mounds. These mounds are built by termites.  Seriously. They're a mysterious natural phenomena because they all seem to have the flat sides with a North-South orientation. Termites are blind and can't take the heat.  That's odd because this area of Australia is hot and has some of the most extreme weather conditions. Somehow, they manage to construct these mounds in a  North-South positioning; protecting it from the sun's overhead heat. Its sheer height protects it from floods. Scientists have wondered how they can build these huge termite cities with its perfect North-South orientation.  They started experimenting with magnets near a broken section of the mound to change the earth's natural magnetic field. After realizing the termites started changing the direction of the construction, it was concluded that they are influenced by magnetic fields somehow.  Who knew?!

                                

 

Two more falls in Litchfield, Florence and Wangi...

Florence

Wangi

 

It wasn't until we arrived at the airport that we learned our flight home would only take us to Brisbane instead of Newcastle.  Thanks to the recent ash cloud, our vacation was extended another two days until we could  book the next available flight.  In the airport, we sat on our luggage for a couple of hours unsuccessfully trying to reserve a hotel in Brisbane.  Eventually we decided to rent a car and drive an hour south to the Gold Coast. It was great fun.  We were too busy riding roller coasters at an amusement park to take any pictures of the beach town.  

Random Pictures from the Top End: 

Charlie the water buffalo made famous from Crocodile Dundee

We faithfully observed all appropriate signs

2 mins before I took this shot, I told Jason I wanted to see a water buffalo in the wild.  Ask and you shall receive.  He was hanging out near the road. 

Finally saw "Joey"

That's it for Darwin and the Top End.  We checked another box and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.  We're already looking forward to our next trip.  

We'll be thinking of you in the next few days while you're off enjoying the 4th of July.  Happy Independence Day fellow Americans.